West of Gunnison is the Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park, deep and narrow with with routes as long as 2,000 feet. Hartman Rocks is a multi-use area administered by the BLM, the City of Gunnison, and Gunnison County. Bike, hike, camp, bouldering, and traditional climbing are all part of the Hartman Rocks experience. Taylor Canyon has options which include rock climbing, camping, paddling, fishing, mountain biking, and hiking. If the Harmel’s Area of Taylor Canyon is crowded, a short drive to Spring Creek (which drains into the Taylor River), has fewer folks along with nice walls, towers, and crags to explore. Thinking of a degree in Recreation and Outdoor Recreation, Western State Colorado University in Gunnison is a large draw for students invested in outdoor activity. Looking for a wide variety of climbing options, Gunnison is worth the investigation for a Colorado Climb.
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Access from Highway 50: turn south on West Airport Road (County Road 38) for 2.5 miles to the Parking Area.
Because of the close proximity of the climbing areas to one another, check the map for locations.
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Coffin Crag: 2 Routes
From the Rosy Lane Campground looking across the Taylor River is the Coffin Crag. A short distance up river from the PCP Pinnacle is a tryolean going across the river. After crossing the river, hike about 1/2 mile to the east to the area of Coffin Crag.
Mountainproject.com: Coffin Crack Crag Mountain Climbing
Located about a mile below the Taylor Park, after passing the Lottis Creek Campground, cross the river and look up to the left to see the buttress. There is a parking pullout just past the private property.
Mountainproject.com: The Frenchman Buttress Rock Climbing
Located in the Taylor River Canyon, about 3.2 miles east of Almont, with good signage. The climbing face is just above the parking lot.
Mountainproject.com: Gunnison Mountain Park Picnic Area Rock Climbing
Located on the road to the North Bank Campground.
Mountainproject.com: North Bank Rock Climbing
Located across from the Rosy Lane Campground. Parking at a pullout on the right side of the road, not in the campground.
Mountain Project.com: PCP Pinnacle Rock Climbing
Located across the river from the Rosy Lane Campground. There is day use parking within the campground, or pullout parking across the road on the right side.
Mountainproject.com: Rosy Lane Rock Climbing
Located just to the north of the First Buttress in middle Taylor Canyon.
Mountainproject.com: Second Buttress Rock Climbing
Located above the Rosy Lane Campground in Taylor Canyon. Many of the campgrounds in the canyon have boulders, giving climbers easy access to camp and climb.
Mountainproject.com: Taylor Canyon Bouldering
Found by taking the North Bank Trail to the east up Taylor Canyon, up the gulch, with the Tilt Wall being found just past a small talus field, up and on the right side of the gulch.
]]>With a length of 48 miles, from the dam Blue Mesa Reservoir downstream to the middle of the Gunnison Gorge National Conservation Area, the Black Canyon provides experienced climbers a tight narrow canyon with some of the tallest vertical wall climbing in Western Colorado. The Painted Wall, at 2,500 feet is the tallest vertical wall in the state of Colorado. The National Park contains only 12 miles of the Gunnison River gorge and contains 145 routes, eight are rated at 5.8; twenty-one are rated at 5.9, the remaining climbing routes have ratings between 5.10 and 5.13.
Within the National Park, a designated wilderness area, the parks Climbing Management Plan is the foundation for planning a climb. The main climbing season is from the middle of April to the early part of June. The fall season begins in September to early November. Climbers should be aware for the following challenges:
It is noteworthy that the park service closes climbing access in the Black Canyon area due to nesting raptors in the spring (seasonal). Crossing the Gunnison River for climbing access can be an issue with careful planning required.
Upriver from the Park is the Curecanti National Recreation Area, consisting of the three reservoirs (Blue Mesa, Morrow Point and Crystal) in the Black Canyon. The Morrow Point reservoir is the location of the Curecanti Needle:
Grand Junction in Mesa County is the largest city on Colorado's Western Slope. Located in the midpoint of the Grand Valley, this service center boasts access to 2,693 climbing routes within a 40 mile radius. Mild winter temperatures support climbing activity in the spring and fall seasons. The chief advantage of the Grand Junction area is the massive number and variety of climbs that lie within a close proximity, giving climbers endless options for activity.
ARC'TERYX Presents Weekends with Piz - Weekend Warriors from ARC'TERYX on Vimeo.
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Bangs Canyon: 13 Routes
Located just before the East Entrance of Colorado National Monument: Broadway to Rim Rock Drive, 1 block to left on D Road, becoming Rosevale and Little Park Roads, 5 miles to the crest of the hill, turnoff to Rough and Bangs Canyons at the first left.
MountainProject.com: Bangs Canyon
Bookcliffs: 3 Routes
Mountains located just to the north of the City of Grand Junction.
MountainProject.com: Bookcliffs
Bullet Hole Boulder Area: 38 Routes
Located just off of Monument Road, .25 miles past the Tabeguache Trail Head, parking is on the right.
MountainProject.com: Bullet Hole Boulder Area
Colorado National Monument: 181 Routes
Colorado National Monument is located just south of the City of Grand Junction.
MountainProject.com: Colorado National Monument
Colorado NM Climbing Page Link
De Beque Canyon: 38 Routes
The Colorado River flows through De Beque Canyon in eastern Mesa County, I 70 access.
MountainProject.com: De Beque Canyon
Dominguez Canyon: 2 Routes
Located south-east of Grand Junction, includes the Dominguez-Escalante National Conservation Area (210,172 acres). The Dominguez Canyon Wilderness Area (66,280 acres included in the NCA) is managed by the BLM, and is their largest roadless area in Colorado. The Wilderness Area sits in the middle of the NCA, showcases Big and Little Dominguez Canyons. This area consists of red rock canyons with sandstone bluffs, all part of the Uncompahgre Plateau.
MountainProject.com: Dominguez Canyon
Dominguez-Escalante NCA Map Pdf
Dynamite Shacks: 65 Routes
Located just across from the Tabeguache Trail Head on Monument Road, parking on the right.
MountainProject.com: Dynamite Shacks
Escalante Canyon: 81 Routes
Escalante Canyon lies in the south eastern part of the Dominguez-Escalante National Conservation Area. Not included in the Dominguez Canyon WA, this section of the NCA allows for vehicle access on established roads.
MountainProject.com: Escalante Canyon
Dominguez-Escalante NCA Map Pdf
Grand Mesa (Lands End): 82 Routes
Take Highway 50 east of Grand Junction, 13 miles, travel east on Kannah Creek Road, follow signs to Lands End.
MountainProject.com: Grand Mesa (Lands End)
Holy Cross Boulders: 18 Routes
From Grand Junction, Broadway to Rim Rock Drive, 1 block to left on D Road, becoming Rosevale and Little Park Roads, parking is at the Lunch Loop TH, just past the last house located on the right side of Little Park Road.
MountainProject.com: Holy Cross Boulders
McInnis Canyon Bouldering: 4 Routes
Trail Head is just off of Hwy 340 (I70, Fruita exit), take Kings View Road (west) to Devil's Canyon Road, parking on the right.
MountainProject.com: McInnis Canyon Bouldering
McInnis Canyons: 8 Routes
The McInnis Canyons National Conservation Area is located just north-west from the Colorado National Monument, and consists of 123,430 acres of BLM administered land. This NCA contains the Black Ridge Canyons Wilderness Area, which has 75,000 acres and the largest concentration of natural arches in North America
MountainProject.com: McInnis Canyons
Palisade: 19 Routes
Climbing on Mt. Garfield area, access is by the Mt. Garfield Trail Head just north of the town of Palisade. The attraction is climbing the towers of talus located along the interstate.
MountainProject.com: Palisade Climbing
Rabbit Valley: 2 Routes
Located west of Grand Junction, Rabbit Valley sits on the Colorado-Utah state line. The Rabbit Valley Staging Area is south of the interstate, use Exit 1.
MountainProject.com: Rabbit Valley
Rattlesnake Canyon: 1 Route
Rattle Snake Canyon is part of the McInnis NCA, located north-west of the Colorado National Monument. Rattle Snake Canyon is located in the Black Ridge Canyons Wilderness Area. Hiking in from the Pollock Bench TH makes a round trip length of 15.5 miles. A second trail head south of the canyon is the shortest route to the Canyon, however it requires a high clearance four wheel drive vehicle for the last several miles. See McInnis Canyons above.
MountainProject.com: Rattlesnake Canyon
Riggs' Hill: 73 Routes
Named for Elmer S. Riggs, a paleontologist with the Field Museum of Natural History, the hill area is thought of as the first dinosaur quarry in Western Colorado. This area is littered with large boulders, for bouldering.
Mountainproject.com: Riggs' Hill
Rough Canyon: 13 Routes
Located east of the Colorado National Monument, off of Little Park Road; at the Tabeguache Trailhead.
Mountainproject.com: Rough Canyon
South Camp: 17 Routes
South Camp Bouldering Area is located off of South Broadway on South Camp Road on the Redlands. The desert hills in this area also the location for the Bullet Hole Boulders and the Dynamite Shacks area.
Mountainoroject.com: South Camp Bouldering
The Swimming Hole: 4 Routes
Trail Head parking is at the Rustlers Loop TH, near Loma. Hike along the trail towards the Colorado River. The anchors for rappelling are located at the top of the cliff over the River.
Mountainproject.com: the Swimming Hole Rock Climbing
Tabeguache Boulders: 12 Routes
This boulder area is near the eastern boundary of the Colorado National Monument. Cross the Colorado River on Broadway, to Monument Road, follow south for 1.7 miles until reaching the Tabeguache/Lunch Loop TH (the same parking area for Dynamite Shacks), boulder area is located off the Tabeguache Trail.
Mountainproject.com: Tabeguache Boulders
Unaweep Canyon: 2019 Routes
Unaweep Canyon is located just east of Grand Junction, take Highway 50, turning south on Highway 141 south.
Located in Mesa County, Unaweep Canyon is unique in that it has two creeks that exit the canyon, one flowing south and one north. Highway 141 is the main access route following the canyon between Whitewater and Gateway. The canyon is the only one in the world with a divide in the middle and streams exiting from both ends. The Nine Mile Hill Area, with it's 18% grade, was the original wagon road from the uranium mines in the West End to the mills in Grand Junction.
Unaweep Canyon, with over 1,000 routes, gives climbers both sandstone and granite, with a range from 5.6 to 5.13. Prime climbing is from Spring into the fall each year. The Nine Mile Hill Boulder Area offers hundreds of options ranging from V) to V12. Once reaching the main canyon, climbers find themselves into a zone that is solid metamorphic rock, with cliffs from 150 feet to over 900 feet in height.
Main Canyon:
299 Routes, 148 Sport Routes
The Access Fund owns Sunday Wall, Fortress Wall, and Hidden Valley Wall. The central part of Unaweep canyon is made up of metamorphic rock, granite and quartz monzonite walls. This metamorphic rock is some of the oldest in the state, between 1.4 and 1.7 billion years old. The granite in Unaweep is thought to be the same base rock that is found in the Black Canyon of the Gunnison. Many of the clifs on the south side of Hwy 141 are on BLM property, the land on the valley floor is mostly private which provides access challenges for climbers.
Unaweep Granite:
273 Routes, 110 Sport Routes
Access Fund Trail Head:
109 Routes
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Mighty Mouse Wall:
38 Routes, located on the south side of Hwy 141, 1.8 miles past Divide Road.
Mothers Buttress:
85 Routes, located 3.1 miles past Divide Road, with lower, middle, and upper crags. This property is owned by Western Colorado Climbers Coalition
Gateway Vacinity, aka The West End:
32 Routes
Traveling along Hwy 141 through Unaweep Canyon, past the granite cliffs of the main canyon, the highway opens up into a large valley with sandstone cliffs in all directions.
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Lake City Ice Climbers, Inc. Link
Lake City Ice Park: The Mountain Project
Admission to the Ouray Ice Park is free, climbers are encouraged to join the Ice Park to provide support for this excellent facility.
Hours: Monday- Friday: 8 am- 4 pm
Saturday- Sunday: 7:30 am- 4 pm.
South Park: Upper Bridge Area: WI2- WI5, 32 Routes
Grade Range: WI2- WI5
New Funtier: WI2 – WI4, 13 Routes
Grade Range: WI2 – WI4
Schoolroom: WI2- WI5, 17 Routes
Grade Range: WI2-WI5 & M4- M6
Trestle + Mixed Alcove: WI3/4- M9, 23 Routes
Grade Range: WI3/4 to M9 Mixed
Climbs: “Jesus Built My Finger Crack” (M4, gear)
“Easter Rising” (M8+, gear)
Lead Area – Upper Bridge: WI4/5 to M-hard, 15 Routes
Grade Range: WI4/5 to M-hard “Lead area only, no top roping”
Mixed Routes: Comp Routes Hardline (M9, gear) Fight Ckyb (M7, bolts)
Lower Bridge: WI3 to M9, 31 Routes
Grade Range: WI3 to M9 Mixed
Routes:
Sisters of Mercy (M7, bolts)
Super Dave: (M7), gear
Tic Tac (M7, bolts)
Scottish Gullies, WI2/3- WI4, 6 Routes
Grade Range: WI2/3 – WI4
Mixed Routes:
Mighty Aphrodite (M9 R/X, Small Cams and Stoppers)
Dizzy with a Vision (M7, Botls and Ice Screws)
Water Torture (M8, Bolts)
Supremacy Crack (M7/M8, Gear)
Stump Wall: WI4 – WI5 to M6, 4 Routes
Grade Range: WI4 – WI5 to M6
Five Fingers: WI4 to M7, 10 Routes” open=”false”] Grade Range: WI4 to M7
Mixed Climbs: Uddah Bruddah (M7, bolts) Salsa Lisa (M7-, bolts) Helgi’s Route (M7, bolts and gear)
Shithouse Wall: W13 – W15, 5 Routes
Grade Range: W13 – W15
Kids Climbing Park: Grade Range: WI2, 9 Routes
Cette zone est juste à l’ouest du pont supérieur et pas dans la Gorge de Uncompahgre, avec des itinéraires de niveau débutant à intermédiaire, avec une Grange de WI2 de Grade.
January 18- 21, 2018
The Mountain Project Link
]]>Ice Climbing: the Park offers excellent ice climbing form late December until into March. Routes range from WI4+- 6
Directions: north of Rifle on Highway 13, then east of Highway 325; continue past Rifle Gap and Rifle Falls State Parks, travel past the fish hatchery to the Park.
Fees: Daily Vehicle: $5 Annual Passes are offered from $15 to $50 depending on residence location. Camping: Including the Day Pass: $15 (camping fees are discounted with proof of annual pass.) The campground is currently dry, with water available at the Rifle Falls and Rifle Gap State Parks.
Rifle Mountain Park Routes:
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